The Art of Cashmere Production

Q: What dyes and chemicals are used in GOBI’s cashmere manufacturing process?

Only OEKO-TEX certified dyes are used, ensuring the garments are skin-friendly and safe for everyday wear.

June 30, 2025

Uchral Amar

Director of Design Development Department

Uchral Amar

Director of Design Development Department

With over 10 years at GOBI Cashmere, Uchral has dedicated her career to crafting beautifully designed knitwear. Starting as a textile designer, she later led the design division and now oversees design development as its director. Her deep knowledge of fashion design, combined with years of hands-on experience, allows her to create timeless, high-quality cashmere pieces that blend tradition with modern innovation. She shares expert insights on cashmere fashion, design trends, the creative process behind each garment, and also how to wear, care for, and truly appreciate cashmere.

Author Profile

What Makes Mongolian Cashmere So Special?

It's easy to fall in love with cashmere once you wear it, but there's something truly unique about cashmere from Mongolia. GOBI's story is rooted in tradition, quality, and care, from the vast grasslands to the final stitch.

Have you ever wondered how your favorite Mongolian cashmere sweater is made? At GOBI, the process involves over 150 meticulous steps, handled precisely from start to finish.

Since September 5th, 1981, GOBI has been dedicated to producing premium Mongolian cashmere. Now celebrating 44 years of excellence, we've earned a reputation for producing the finest quality cashmere, made with passion, pride, and purpose.

Where Is Cashmere Produced? Why Mongolia Leads the World

Most people don't know exactly where cashmere is produced, but it all makes sense once you explore Mongolia's unique role in this process. From natural conditions to ethical practices, cashmere in Mongolia is a world apart.

The Mongolian Landscape — Natural Conditions for Premium Cashmere

In Mongolia, harsh winters push goats to grow ultra-soft undercoats, which are later used for cashmere production. These goats are cared for by nomadic herders who pass down their knowledge for generations. The fiber is gently hand-combed during the natural molting season, a time-honored tradition in Mongolia.

GOBI sources its Mongolian cashmere from all around Mongolia, with most of the raw fiber coming from the eastern provinces of Khentii, Sukhbaatar, and Khuvsgul, as well as the western regions of Bayankhongor, Arkhangai, and Uvs.

In these areas, nature and generations of herding experience come together to produce exceptional-quality cashmere.

Ethically Sourced & Eco-Friendly Practices

At GOBI Cashmere, we source the finest raw cashmere through cooperatives formed by local herders, who deliver it directly to our cashmere collection units in the province. The company follows ethical practices and is certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.

No animals are harmed ever. The cashmere is collected only when the goats naturally shed their fleece, which is from mid-March to early June. It's comforting to know I'm wearing ethically sourced cashmere.

Step-by-Step: How Is Cashmere Produced?

Before your sweater reached your closet, it went through a carefully monitored journey. A cashmere garment goes through the below 5 factories, 15 divisions, and around 150 processes until it lands in your hands for you to enjoy. So, if you're asking, "How is cashmere produced?" here's a look into every stage it goes through to become a luxury garment.

1. Primary Factory – From Raw Fiber to Combed Perfection

At GOBI Cashmere, the first step in cashmere production is sorting raw fibers. It is selected based on strict premium quality standards and brought to our headquarters in Ulaanbaatar. In the primary factory, skilled workers hand-sort the cashmere by four natural colors, which are white, beige, taupe, and Mongolia-exclusive warm grey. Also, they classify cashmere by quality and dandruff levels.

The sorted cashmere is then thoroughly washed to remove natural odors and dried for 24 hours. It undergoes dehairing using fully automated Japanese Hashima machines, which operate continuously to remove dandruff, dirt, and coarse fibers. This process, maintained under strict humidity (60-63%) and temperature (20-23°C) conditions, is crucial for achieving the cashmere's signature softness.

2. Spinning Factory — Where Fiber Becomes Yarn

The processed cashmere then gets colored by using Huntsman dyes. We’re certified by OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, which ensures that everything from chemical dye to buttons we use are tested and safe for human health. With a palette of 1,922 shades, GOBI offers garments in a wide range of on-trend seasonal colors. This part of cashmere manufacturing ensures the color lasts while maintaining softness, an essential step in producing luxury cashmere. Next is blending. We begin with the emulsifying process using Italian OMMI machinery and the AISO system. This means we spray water, oil, and antistatic agents on cashmere to enhance durability. As a living fiber, cashmere then rests for 24 hours to recover and prepare for further processing.

We use exclusive Italian Artipa machines to produce primary yarns; we are the only company in Mongolia to do so. These advanced machines are rare and used in only a few countries worldwide.

Rested cashmere is manually weighed (220g), layered, and brushed into strips. Each machine takes 2.5 hours to produce 8 rolls of yarn, which are sent to the spinning facility.

Our Italian Begagli spinning machines are energy-efficient and eco-friendly, refining the yarn into smooth, compact strands over a 5-hour process. After a lab quality check, the yarn is ready to weave and knit into GOBI's highest-quality cashmere garments.

3. Weaving Factory – Creating Luxurious Fabrics & Scarves

Our weaving factory is unique in producing both woven products (scarves, shawls, blankets) and cashmere fabrics used in coats, blazers, and other sewn items. The process begins with winding warp yarns (700-7200 strands) using German Karl Mayer machines. Each yarn is then hand-threaded into needles, taking up to 3 days.

The yarns are woven with weft yarns (up to 8 strands) using German Dornier and Swiss Sulzer machines. Temperature (18-20°C) and humidity (55-60%) are strictly maintained to ensure quality. Post-weaving fabrics undergo strict quality checks. Any defects lead to repairs before re-inspection. Fabric types and weaving methods vary depending on the final product (e.g., coats vs. blazers).

Woven products go through the following process:

The woven cashmere fabric is selected by product type, and design specifications are processed using Italian CIMI desizing/washing machines. This machine is designed for efficient and eco-friendly fabric processing, focusing on minimal water and chemical consumption. After desizing, the fabric is steamed, dried, inspected, ironed, cleaned, cut to size, rechecked, labeled, and packaged. This stage is where the exceptional Mongolian cashmere quality truly shines. The factory produces gorgeous woven cashmere scarves, as well as printed shawls using watercolor techniques on finely woven fabric.

4. Knitting Factory – Where Yarns Turn into Garments

This is the heart of the process where Mongolian cashmere sweaters come to life. Our knitting factory, the largest among all, is where cashmere yarns are transformed into garments using advanced knitting machines.

Types of Machines:

2D Knitting Machines: Knit separate parts (front, back, sleeves, collar). We use German Stoll, Japanese Shima Seiki and Italian Lonati and have over 200 knitting machines.

3D Wholegarment Machines: Seamlessly knit entire garments. Introduced in 2023, our Shima Seiki machines are energy-efficient and operate 24/7.

Knitting machines are fully automated; our design team sends the product designs via an internal network to the machines. 2D machines knit garment parts, which were later sewn together in the sewing workshop. 3D designs skip this step, as they are knitted in one piece. In 2024, we implemented a Conveyor Belt system in the sewing section to enhance workflow and quality control.

Every garment undergoes a detailed quality check and then is washed with hypoallergenic, odorless liquid and softener. Post-wash, garments are steamed to regain shape, manually cleaned of loose yarn, ironed, and inspected again. The final steps include labeling, attaching care instructions, and packaging for the warehouse, ensuring you receive the best quality cashmere.

A Cashmere Wholegarment product in Making | GOBI Cashmere

5. Sewing Factory – Tailoring Precision

Before garments are cut, fabrics are rested to regain balance, a small but vital step in understanding how cashmere is produced with precision. GOBI uses Japanese Hashima machines to enhance durability. After cutting and sewing, pieces are cleaned, ironed, and labeled.

As cashmere is treated as a living fiber, woven fabrics are rested for 24 hours before sewing. During weaving, the fabric stretches, so we use a Japanese Hashima de-sizing machine to restore sizing and enhance durability. After a quality check, fabrics are cut into templates, fused using a Straight Linear Fusing Press, and then sent to the sewing workshop. Finished items undergo multiple quality checks, ironing, and labeling and are finally packaged.

To minimize industrial waste, we repurpose fabric leftovers, such as large pieces that become children's clothing and small scraps that are used for mouse pads and card holders. Yarn waste from the spinning factory fills travel blankets and sleeping bags.

In 2023, we launched the Cashmere Reborn Collection, which reuses manufacturing waste to create new products. It's a thoughtful approach to ethically sourced cashmere.

Quality Control – Ensuring Premium in Every Stitch

In GOBI, from raw fiber to finished fabric, every stage is monitored and tested, so the quality you see and feel is no accident; it's guaranteed.

Internationally Certified Labs at Every Stage

Our company follows ISO 9001 and MN ISO/IEC 17025:2018 standards, with a dedicated Quality and Standards Assurance Division ensuring inspections at every production stage. We operate four accredited labs equipped with advanced technology from Japan, England, Italy, and Switzerland, specializing in combed cashmere, yarn, dyeing, and pilling.

Our lab technicians receive annual training to maintain high standards. Each of our five factories has key quality indicators:

Primary Factory: Micron count, fiber length, and natural color.
Spinning Factory: Yarn number, strength, twist, and stretch.
Weaving Factory: Weaving defects, size, weight, pattern consistency, durability, and print quality.
Knitting Factory: Size, fit, pilling (avg. score of 4), seam, stitching, and dyeing.
Sewing Factory: Size, fit, stitching, durability, and dyeing.

Comprehensive quality checks are performed at every stage to ensure top-quality cashmere products.

From Goat to Garment – Why GOBI Cashmere is the Best

There's a reason GOBI has earned its name among the world's top cashmere brands. The journey from fiber to fashion is transparent, traceable, and ethical.

What Sets GOBI Apart?

GOBI is one of the few global brands that manufactures fully integrated cashmere. All 150+ steps, from collecting raw cashmere to labeling sweaters, are done in-house, ensuring complete control over quality and ethics. With operations across 5 factories, GOBI manages every stage closely, maintaining strict standards. This transparent, traceable, and ethical production process means you can trust the authenticity and care behind every product.

Investing in Quality, Comfort & Responsibility

Real luxury cashmere is more than just softness; it's about knowing your garment lasts. GOBI sweaters get better with time, resist pilling, and keep their shape, making them a smart choice for thoughtful shoppers.

There's something deeply satisfying about wearing a product made with care at every step. For 44 years, GOBI has celebrated the beauty of Mongolian cashmere with products that balance ethics, tradition, luxury, and timeless style.

Explore GOBI Cashmere's 2D and 3D knits, woven scarves, and eco-friendly pieces that truly reflect the essence of cashmere in Mongolia.

FAQs

What makes Mongolian cashmere better than other types of cashmere?

The goats in Mongolia grow a denser, softer undercoat due to the extreme climate, which results in finer fibers. Additionally, herders’ hand-combing methods preserve fiber quality.

How is cashmere collected from goats in Mongolia?

Cashmere is gently hand-combed during the molting season when goats naturally shed their fleece. This ensures no harm to animals and keeps the fiber soft and intact.

Is cashmere production ethical and eco-friendly at GOBI?

Yes. GOBI works directly with local herders and follows eco-friendly practices. They are certified by the Sustainable Fibre Alliance.

How many steps does it take to make a cashmere sweater?

Over 150 steps, from sourcing and spinning to final sewing and inspection, every stage is carefully managed in GOBI's fully integrated process.

What's the difference between woven and knitted cashmere products?

Woven cashmere (like scarves and coats) has a tighter structure, while knitted cashmere (like sweaters) is stretchier and softer.

How do you ensure the highest quality cashmere at every stage?

GOBI uses certified labs to test fiber length, micron count, dye stability, and more, ensuring premium quality in every garment.

What dyes and chemicals are used in GOBI's cashmere manufacturing process?

GOBI uses Huntsman dyes. GOBI’s certified by OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100, which ensures that everything from chemical dye to buttons we use are tested and safe for human health.

How should I care for my cashmere sweater to make it last longer?

To care for your cashmere, gently wash it in lukewarm water using a cashmere or wool shampoo. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and lay it flat to dry. Always store your cashmere folded rather than hanging to help maintain its shape.

What is the Cashmere Reborn Collection made of?

It's made from recycled yarn waste and leftover fabrics, offering beautiful, functional pieces with zero fabric waste.

How can I tell if a cashmere product is high quality?

Look for softness, density, and how the garment holds its shape. Also, check if it's made with long fibers and tested by certified labs, just like GOBI.